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January 17, 2018
 
Italy
A Brief Guide to Italian Wines
Almost all of Italy is perfect for wine grape cultivation and they have over 350 indigenous vinifera grapes. Etruscan and Greek settlers produced wine in Italy before the Romans started their own vineyards in the 2nd century BC. Roman grape-growing and winemaking was prolific and well-organized, pioneering large-scale production and storage techniques like barrel-making and bottling.

If you thought French wine labels were hard to understand, wait until you have spent some time with Italian wines.  As in France, most Italian wines are seldom labeled by grape varietal, but instead by geographic origin.  As a result, Italian regulations tend to stratify wines into fixed classes of perceived quality.   As in France, this creates a self fulfilling prophecy for wine producers.  For example, if you make wine from the Sangiovese grape in the zone of Tuscany, you must be within the region of Chianti to be called a "Chianti."  But, you can never aspire to be a Chianti Classico unless you are within the physical boundaries of the regulated Classico region within Chianti.  Does being grown across the valley make it better?   In every vintage?

Italy is divided into 20 wine zones, which are the same as their political regions.  Within those regions, Italian law further designates four classifications of wine quality based upon its place of origin.   Look for one of these classifications on every bottle of Italian wine.

DOCG -  Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
This means regulated and guaranteed place-name - only 17 of these designations exist.   For instance, Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino are both DOCG regions in Tuscany where the wine is made from Sangiovese grapes.  

DOC -  Denominazione di Origine Controllata
This means regulated place-name - 286 of these place name designations exist.  For example, the Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella DOC is a wine made primarily from Corvina grapes, by the Ripassa method in the Valpolicella region located in the zone of Veneto.   The Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre, one of the best Ripassa currently made in Valpolicella, is made by the Allegrini family who got fed up with "unreasonable regulations" that prevented them from blending certain grapes.  With this vintage, they have chucked their DOC designation and are now officially classified as an IGT.  

IGT -  Indicazione di Geografica Tipica
These are table wines with a geographic place of origin on the label.  These tend to be broad regional designations - 128 IGT designations exist.    Di Majo Norante Sangiovese is an IGT wine from the zone of Molise.  You can tell that they have targeted this wine for the US export market since they have actually used the grape varietal name on the label.   

Some of Italy's most famous and expensive wines, "Super Tuscans," are also forced into this classification because indigenous grapes like Sangiovese have been blended with international grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Table Wine
Table wine carries no geographical indication on the label except Italy.  For example the Taurino Notarpanaro wine is identified only as red table wine.  It is made by the Taurino family from a vineyard named Notarpanaro in the zone Puglia, that either does not lie within an approved geographic area or the Taurino family, like the Allegrinis, have chosen not to use the official designation.    

Confused yet?  The good news is that the word "reserve" actually means something in Italy.  Each geographic area has its own complex and often arcane set of rules: but in Chianti, Reserva are aged in oak and may be released only after two years at the winery.   

Here is quick guide to seven of Italy's most famous wine regions and primary varieties of grapes used  there.  

Piedmont
In the far North Western corner of Italy, home to the unique combination of soil and climate that produces the difficult Nebbiolo grape
Barolo and Barbaresco  - from the Nebbiolo grape
Lighter red wines from the Barbera and Dolcetto grape like Barbera d' Asti and Dolcetto d' Alba among others.  

Tuscany 
Italy's most famous wine producing region located on the Northern Western coast 
Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from primarily Sangiovese grapes.  Carmignano and other unclassified Super Tuscans are made from Sangiovese and international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon.  

Veneto
Home to the intense Amarone, Veneto is located far North Eastern Italy
Soave, a white wine from Garganega and Trebbiano grapes
Reds, Valpolicella, Amarone and Bardolino from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes.  

Trentino/Alto Adige
Italy's coolest growing region in the North East corner on the Austrian border
Famous for its white wines including Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Tocai.

Umbria
In central Italy, Umbria is where many a red wine bargain can be found
Famous for its white Orvietos
Reds from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and the native Torgiano and Sagrantino.

Puglia
Italy's warmest growing region located in the very heel of the boot
Bold, powerful reds from Primitivo (our Zinfandel), Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera.
White from Verdeca, Bianco d'alessano, Trebiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca.

Sicily
This island is Italy's largest growing region with a very California-like climate
Whites from the native Insolia, Chardonnay and many other varietals as well as Catarratto Bianco used in Marsala and Vermouth.
Reds include the native Nero d'avola as well as Merlot and many other international varietals.

Wine is made everywhere in Italy, much of it from grapes you have never heard of.  As the importance of export continues to rise, look for more and more good varietally labeled wines to come out of Italy.  And, while the serious students of Italian wine turn up their noses, we'll find more great bargains like the Di Majo Norante Sangiovese.   

Remember the secret to Italian wine is that it is designed for food, so try something you have never had before with dinner tonight.
 

The Recipe Exchange
 
Linda and I took our  "dream trip" to Italy in 2012 and ordered Pasta Fagioli at a café in Rome.  It was good but we still like this one better....

Sausage Pasta Fagioli with Spinach
 
 
1/2 lb. sweet Italian sausage
1/2 Tbs olive oil
1 medium onion
1 clove garlic crushed
1 14oz. can plum tomatoes in juice (or use Red Gold petite diced)
1 14.5oz. can chicken broth
1 15oz. can Great Northern Beans
1/2  tsp. salt
3 to 6oz. ditalini, tubetti or macaroni pasta (1/2-1 cup rounded dry)
3 to 5oz. frozen spinach thawed/drained
Parmesan cheese to top

1. Brown meat in sauce pot in oil and remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

2. Reduce heat to medium and sauté onions in drippings & oil, cook until tender & golden  Add garlic and cook 1 min. Add tomatoes with juices using spoon to break up tomatoes.

3. Add chicken broth, salt, beans and 2 cups of water. Heat over high until boiling. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Add sausage and heat.

4. Make pasta in separate pot.

5. Before serving, add pasta and spinach. Top with Parmesan cheese.
 

Wine Guy Reviews

This is a beautiful Chianti that demands food, any red sauce Italian would be good….

Castellare Chianti Classico 2015 Tuscany, Italy $21
What the Wine Critics Thought: Wine Spectator 90 Points

Intense aromas of ripe cherry, wet limestone and wild herbs are backed by leather, tobacco and tar flavors. Shows complexity, balance and fine length, with a long aftertaste. Best from 2019 through 2030. 8,300 cases made. –BS

What We Thought: This is classic “Old School,” food-friendly Chianti.  Medium-bodied and filled with ripe black cherry fruit, notes of tobacco and a little licorice, it finishes with a bright streak of acidity.
 
Italy’s best white wines come from the cooler growing regions near the Austrian border in the Northeast, this beautiful Pinot Blanc is a great example….
Tiefenbrunner Pinot Bianco 2016 Alto Adige, Italy $15
What the Wine Critics Thought: James Suckling 92 Points
The nose is buzzing with freshly sliced green apples, green melon and richer elements of acacia and honeysuckle. The flavors in the mouth are intense, characterized by grapefruit and high acidity. Uplifted palate. Drink now.

What We Thought: A big, floral, honeysuckle nose leads to a bright, viscous palate filled with white peach and a citrus tinge of nectarine fruit, food-friendly acidity and a smooth, clean finish. 
 

New Arrivals
A pair of beautiful new Nebbiolos from Piedmont....

Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 2011 Piedmont, Italy $49
What the Wine Critics Thought: Wine Spectator 92 Points
This cuts a broad swath, offering cherry, leather, menthol and tobacco flavors. Shows vibrant acidity underneath, with burly, mouthcoating tannins. Fine length. Best from 2019 through 2029. –BS

Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco 2013 Piedmont, Italy $39
What the Wine Critics Thought: James Suckling 93 Points
The purity of fruit is beautiful in this with ripe strawberry and cherry aromas. Medium to full body, firm tannins and a fresh finish. Lovely fruit and acid balance. Gives it precision and life! Drink or hold.

Pick Of The Week
 
An Elegant & Affordable Super Tuscan!
James Suckling 93 Points
$14.99!

This affordable Super Tuscan from one of Italy’s premier Brunello producers is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot….
Altesino Rosso Toscana 2015 Tuscany, Italy $18
We Bought a Bunch $14.99
What the Wine Critics Thought: James Suckling 93 Points
Extremely fruity and pretty with sliced berry, chocolate and hints of cedar. Medium-to-full-body, fine and silky tannins with a fresh finish. Drink or hold.

What We Thought: This Super Tuscan is an amazing value.  Medium-bodied and filled with ripe black cherry and Cabernet-inspired blackberry fruit, this food-friendly wine is supported by some supple but dusty tannins. 
 
To order just use "reply to sender" to return this form or just give me a call. And, be sure to let us know at which store you would prefer to pick it up.

As always, the Wine Guy Guarantee applies.  If you buy a case of wine and don't like it, just return the other bottles for an exchange or refund. 

The case discount is 10%. Case discounts do not apply to items with .99 sale price endings. However, sale wines do combine with other wines to make non sale wines eligible for case discounts.



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Issue 933 Vol. 19 No.
3
January 17, 2018
 
The Wine Guy @
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